The Sierra de Culebra

• Region: Castilla y Leon
• Province: Zamora
• Status: Regional Hunting reserve. With its definitive protection status yet to be determined. In recent years, there has been a debate over the proposal to declare this mountain range a natural park, a measure that has been opposed by the residents of the municipalities affected, as they consider it detrimental to their economic interests.
• Area: The Sierra de la Culebra covers an approximate total area of 70,000 hectares, of which 61,305 hectares have been designated as a Site of Community Importance (LIC), and 67,340 hectares were declared a national hunting reserve in 1973, later converted into a regional hunting reserve since 1996. It is also part of the “Plan de Espacios Naturales Protegidos de Castilla y León” and is part of the Meseta Ibérica biosphere reserve.
• Nearby towns and villages: Pedralba de la Pradería, Puebla de Sanabria, Ferreras de Abajo, Ferreras de Arriba, Ferreruela, Tábara, Manzanal de Arriba, Otero de Bodas, Villardeciervos, Figueruela de Arriba, Mahíde, Riofrío de Aliste

Introduction to the Sierra de Culebra

The Sierra de la Culebra is a Spanish mountain range located in the northwest of the province of Zamora and the autonomous community of Castilla y León. It’s main value lies in the large population of Iberian wolf with the highest concentration in Spain. Populations of red deer, roe deer and wild boar are also very significant.

The name of this mountain range is thought to have been inspired by its undulating contours, which bear a resemblance to a snake, hence its name “Sierra de Culebra” (Snake Mountain Range). However, another theory suggests that the name could have stemmed from the historical presence of snake species, including the smooth snake, the horn-nosed viper, and the whip snake.

The area continues across the border and is included in the Portuguese Natural Park of Montesinhos. Its small elevations range from 800 to 1,200 meters in height. Reforestation pine is dominant in the mountains, although native forest masses of oak, Spanish oak, and chestnut are also present. In the scrublands, heather and rockrose are the dominant plants.

The area has also become famous as a starlight destination. The Starlight Foundation is a non-profit organization that was founded in 2009 to promote the protection of the night sky and the development of “astrotourism” and there is an ever growing list of starlight destinations in Spain to visit.

The Sierra de Culebra: A land of wolves.

This mountain range is internationally renowned for being home to one of the most precious faunal treasures and a symbol of conservation efforts—the Iberian wolf. Its vast expanse allows for days of exploration through wide, untouched natural spaces, far from human presence. It stands as one of the premier destinations in Spain for wolf observation.

Consequently, the Sierra de Culebra is also an exceptional destination for hiking, cycling, or simply immersing oneself in its beauty. Each season presents a different perspective on its nature, but autumn, in particular, reveals a breathtaking spectacle of changing colors in the landscape and the abundance of wild fruits, such as chestnuts and mushrooms, which can be savored alongside other delectable local culinary delights.

The 2022 forest fires were devastating

In the summer of 2022, two major wildfires occurred in the Sierra de la Culebra, located in the northwest of the Spanish province of Zamora. They particularly affected the Sierra de la Culebra and its surroundings. The first fire started on June 15 between the municipalities of Ferreras de Arriba and Sarracín de Aliste, and the second on July 17 in the municipality of Losacio. Both fires were caused by a phenomenon known as dry thunderstorm. The first fire was brought under control on June 24, 2022, and the second on August 14, 2022.

Why not join the Iberia Nature Forum and follow the topic of wolves in the Sierra de Culebra? https://iberianatureforum.com/forums/topic/wolf-in-the-sierra-de-culebra/

The flames spread across the territories of 52 towns in the regions of Aliste, La Carballeda, Tábara, Tierra de Alba, Benavente, and los Valles. The Ferreras fire affected 29,670 hectares, while the Losacio fire affected 35,960 hectares. These were the two largest wildfires in the history of Castilla y León and among the most devastating in Spain since records have been kept.

Although the starting points of both fires were over 20 km apart, the affected areas came into contact along a 15 km line. The combined perimeter affected by both fires encompassed an area of almost 66,000 hectares. Out of this area, 34,000 hectares were of high ecological value as they belonged to the natural space of the Sierra de la Culebra, which is part of the Meseta Ibérica biosphere reserve.

The deer rut in the Sierra de Culebra

To listen to the bellowing of the deer, visit the during the last days of September and the beginning of October. You can hear the males bellowingl halfway along the road that connects Puebla de Sanabria with Río Honor de Castilla (about 6 km from Puebla de Sanabria).

The perfect hotel to stay in the Sierra de Culebra

Flora

IMPORTANT NOTE: Since the forest fire of 2022 (see above) the flora of the Sierra de Culebra has altered dramatically and will obviously take some time to recover along with other wildlife.

Trees and forest

During the 18th century, extensive chestnut and oak forests existed in the mountain range. However, due to intense and uncontrolled logging, the mountain range was progressively deforested. After intense reforestation efforts initiated in the mid-20th century, more than half of the surface area was replanted with coniferous forests. Thus, the dominant species is the resinous or black pine, with mature populations of over fifty years. In addition to the black pine, there is also the Scots pine, whose main population is found in El Casal de Tábara.

The holm oak forest in the Sierra de Culebra, although degraded and fragmented, holds significant value. One notable example is found on the south-facing slope of Peña del Cuervo. Here, alongside holm oak, you can find cork oak and strawberry tree in the tree layer, as well as various shrubs like brooms, thyme, rockrose, and heather.

Another tree species present in the area is the sessile oak, forming smaller forests except for the Barco and Rabomalo oak groves, which thrive on scree slopes. These groves have a limited shrub and herbaceous layer consisting of heather, brooms, gorse, and bracken. Furthermore, the mountain range is characterized by the presence of cork oak forests (known as “zofrero“), chestnut groves, and to a lesser extent, strawberry tree groves (such as those in Sarracín and Cabañas) and evergreen oak forests. Despite the degradation, these diverse forests contribute to the ecological richness of the area.

It is worth noting the presence of alder groves along rivers and streams, such as the Valdalla River, Manzanas, or the Cabrón stream, as well as willow trees (sauces), ash groves and poplar groves.

Shrub vegetation in the Sierra de Culebra

This includes different types of shrubs that occupy specific areas. In places where sessile oak forests would naturally grow, you can find ericaceous shrubs like Erica arborea and cistaceae shrubs dominated by common rockrose and rosemary.

Leguminous shrubs also thrive in the region, with three notable types: broom scrubland with Cytisus scoparius or Cytisus striatus, spiny broom scrubland with Echinospartum lusitanicum and Cytisus multiflorus or Genista hystrix, and gorse scrubland consisting of Cytisus multiflorus along with Adenocarpus complicatus and thyme.

The cork oak forests in the area are particularly significant, as they mark the northernmost distribution of these forests. A prime example can be found in Cabañas de Aliste, which includes hydroturbic areas of high biogeographic interest. These areas are small fenlands or swampy regions where species such as Erica tetralix, Genista anglica, and Genista micrantha are present, sometimes dominated by Drosera rotundifolia, Rhynchospora alba, and Heleocharis multicaulis, and other times by Arnica montana ssp. atlántica. These diverse shrub communities contribute to the ecological richness of the region.

Flora from an economic perspective

The flora in the Sierra de Culebra has notable economic significance. Heather, particularly in the Tábara region, was important for charcoal production.

Rockrose was valued for its labdanum resin, widely used in medicine.

Pine forests are rich in mushrooms, including níscalos, black truffles, carboneras, white boletes, and black boletes. Oak forests host the saffron milk cap, chanterelle, reticulated bolete, and black bolete. Meadows are abundant with edible mushrooms like Agaricus spp., Lepista nuda, and Pleurotus eryngii. These mushrooms are highly regarded in culinary traditions, although their collection is regulated.

One of the most popular mushrooms in the Sierra is the “níscalo” (Lactarius delicious), which is abundant in the pine forests and mixed woods. Its fruiting body appears in autumn and is highly valued in gastronomy. This species, along with other edible mushrooms, has contributed to the development of mycological tourism in the Sierra in recent decades.

Chestnut trees have been significant in the local economy and culture, serving as a key food source. They were historically used as a bread substitute. The “magosto” festival, where roasted chestnuts are enjoyed, remains a cherished cultural tradition, uniting the local community after the chestnut harvest.

Fauna

The Sierra de la Culebra is known for its diverse wildlife. Among the fauna in the mountains, the presence of deer stands out, especially roe deer and red deer. Red deer, being the largest herbivore in the area, were reintroduced in 1973 after becoming extinct in the early 20th century. In fact, is now one of the locations in the Iberian Peninsula where a significant number of these deer can be spotted. The rutting season of these deer, which takes place from mid-September to early October, is one of the most interesting wildlife events in the mountains. The guttural sound emitted by the males during this period is one of the most remarkable displays of nature in this wild state. In addition to deer, wild boars also inhabit this extensive habitat.

The Iberian wolf has become an emblem of the Sierra de la Culebra. Although their population is still relatively small in the mountains, their presence represents one of the highest densities of this species in the Iberian Peninsula and Western Europe. Each year, a certain number of individuals were authorized to be hunted to “maintain the population”. With new legislation protecting the wolf from being hunted this situation has now changed. https://wildsideholidays.co.uk/iberian-wolf-hunting-ban/

In recent years, the presence of the Iberian lynx has also been detected in the mountains, further enhancing the environmental values of this territory. (Though no formal declaration by the Spanish government has been made as yet)

In addition, there are other smaller mammals that are more difficult to spot due to their nocturnal habits or elusive nature. These include genets, beech martens, badgers, rabbits, hares, and numerous other species.

Birdlife in the Sierra de Culebra

The reforestation of pine trees in the 1950s created new habitats that benefited species adapted to these forests. Notable examples include the coal tit (Periparus ater), crested tit (Lophophanes cristatus), and the Eurasian bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), which can nest in the treetops of pine trees. In rocky areas, you can spot the blue rock thrush (Monticola solitarius) and the red rock thrush (Monticola saxatilis). The crested lark (Galerida cristata) is abundant in shrub-dominated and grassland areas. Raptors such as the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), marsh harrier (Circus aeruginosus), as well as nocturnal species like the Eurasian eagle-owl (Bubo bubo) and little owl (Athene noctua), are frequently observed.

Reptiles and amphibians

Among reptiles, notable species include the ocellated lizard (Timon lepidus), Spanish psammodromus (Psammodromus hispanicus), snub-nosed viper (Vipera latastei), ladder snake (Rhinechis scalaris), Aesculapian snake (Zamenis longissimus), and smooth snake (Coronella austriaca). Among amphibians, the presence of the natterjack toad (Epidalea calamita) stands out.

Other wildlife in the Sierra de culebra

In the aquatic environment formed by the extensive network of rivers and streams that traverse the mountains, otters (Lutra lutra) and various fish species such as the “calandino” (Squalius alburnoides) and “bermejuela” (Chondrostoma arcasii) can be found.

The variety and abundance of species in the Sierra de la Culebra indicate that this extensive habitat is one of the most significant wildlife paradises in the Iberian Peninsula and a major contributor to its biodiversity.

Local economy in the Sierra Culebra

Economic activities in the area have traditionally been linked to agriculture, especially livestock farming. The exploitation of natural resources in the area has led to the existence of two native breeds that have survived to this day, becoming symbols of the region. These breeds are the Alistana-Sanabresa cattle and the Zamorano-Leonese donkey.

The Alistana-Sanabresa cattle are protected under the “Ternera de Aliste” guarantee mark, produced and marketed under strict quality controls, and has become a potential driver of economic development in the area.

The Zamorano-Leonese donkey, known for its beauty and adaptability to the environment, has been supported by different administrations for breeding and genetic improvement due to its unique resistance traits.

The Sierra provides a wide variety of natural products such as chestnuts, blackberries, mushrooms, walnuts, sloes, etc., which are utilized to a greater or lesser extent by the inhabitants. Beekeeping is one of the traditional occupations in the Sierra due to its natural spaces with crystal-clear waters and wildflower varieties that serve as food for bees, including heather, thyme, chestnut, wild cherry, hawthorn, rockrose, apple tree, rose, and blackberry.

Centro de interpretación de la miel

The Honey Interpretation Center is situated in Sagallos, a place steeped in tradition. Visitors to the center can enjoy guided tours (available in English, Portuguese, and Spanish) of the honey museum and the wax press. They can also experience live hive visits and participate in gastronomic workshops where honey takes center stage. Additionally, the center offers medicinal plant workshops that utilize wax to create creams.

For younger visitors, there are storytelling sessions, handicraft activities, and entertaining bee-themed games designed especially for children. https://www.turismocastillayleon.com/en/art-culture-heritage/cultural-spaces/centro-interpretacion-miel

Now and the future

In recent decades, tourism has become one of the main focal points of the Sierra’s economic activity. Alongside this sector, various activities have emerged that focus on the opportunities offered by the Sierra, including hunting, fishing, water sports, ecotourism, mycology, adventure tourism, and rural tourism in general. In recent years, new companies have emerged that offer activities related to wildlife (birdwatching, tracking, or observation), environmental and adventure education (hiking, mountain biking, rappelling, or climbing).

Centro del lobo Ibérico Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente

Located in the village of Robledo (Puebla de Sanabria) in the province of Zamora at the far north of Castilla y León. This relatively new (2015) wolf interpretation centre should be high on your list of places to visit if you are interested in the Iberian wolf. (Read more here on the Iberian wolf information page)

Towns and villages in the Sierra de Culebra to visit

The Sierra de la Culebra holds great ecological and natural value while also preserving its rich historical and cultural heritage. Within the mountain range, there are quite a few sites of Cultural heritage, which receive the highest level of protection under the law. Notable among them are the historic towns of Puebla de Sanabria and Villardeciervos, as well as the ethnographic ensemble of Santa Cruz de los Cuérragos.

Puebla de Sanabria

Puebla de Sanabria’s urban ensemble is remarkable, showcasing the town’s rich historical development. The northern part contains the main buildings that reflect its ancient civil, military, and religious power. The town is enclosed by defensive structures from the medieval period, which were modified and reinforced in the 17th century. Within the enclosure, two distinct areas called “La Villa” and “El Arrabal” are separated by a natural depression.

The original walled nucleus, later expanded, houses notable buildings like the Castle of the Counts of Benavente, including its iconic keep known as the “Torre del Macho,” the Church of Santa María del Azogue, the baroque hermitage of San Cayetano, and the modest Town Hall. The expansion to the south, known as the Arrabal, features a small humilladero, the chapel of San Pedro from the 18th century, as a unique element.

Villardeciervos

Villardeciervos has a unique clustered layout, with winding streets bordered by predominantly large two or three-story houses. These buildings are made of well-crafted reddish stone from the area and often have spacious rear areas that were once used for animals, courtyards, or orchards. Surrounding these spaces are long stone walls adorned with fruit or ornamental trees. Among these buildings, there are also simpler structures made of the same stone, maintaining a charming simplicity. Both types of buildings feature wooden gallery overhangs on their facades and spaces designed for balconies.

The standout structure in the ensemble is the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. This simple yet Romanesque-influenced temple, constructed with the local reddish stone, is distinguished by its dome that crowns the slender tower and its placement adjacent to the cemetery.

Santa Cruz de los Cuérragos

Santa Cruz de los Cuérragos, a rural locality in the municipality of Manzanal de Arriba, is situated at the western edge of the Sierra, near the border with Portugal. It lies at the meeting point of three regions in Zamora: Aliste, Sanabria, and La Carballeda, highlighting its border character. The town’s urban center, recognized as an ethnological ensemble in 2008, faces Portugal and is nestled at the base of “Peña Castillo,” which has influenced the local architecture. The architecture is adapted to the natural conditions, traditional practices, and prevalent materials in the area, such as stone, slate, and wood.

The urban center represents a unique case of preservation, with architectural features that trace back to the Castro culture and exhibit a primitive charm. The houses, typically two stories tall, are constructed with stone and topped with slate roofs, adorned with wooden balconies or corridors. The ground floor was traditionally used for livestock, while the upper floor served as a dwelling, accessed via an interior stone staircase.

An iconic feature of this architecture is the chimneys, known as “candongas,” which have a movable conical metal cover and a single opening, often crowned with a weather vane to facilitate smoke ventilation. Notable structures within the town’s popular architecture include the Church of Santa Cruz and the “Puente de los Infiernos” (Bridge of the Infernos), which spans the Manzanas River. Additionally, the town is adorned with numerous fountains, troughs, and stone enclosures that mark the boundaries of orchards, meadows, and estates throughout the area.

There are also a few other notable cultural heritage sites classified as monuments. Three of these sites are situated in Puebla de Sanabria: the Castle of the Counts of Benavente, the Church of Santa María del Azogue, and the Town Hall. Another significant site can be found in Tábara, which is the Church of Santa María. Additionally, there are other noteworthy locations such as the archaeological site of the Riomanzanas Castro and the rock art examples of the Covacha del Portillón and the Canchal de Melendro, both located in the town of Linarejos.

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