Spain’s Underrated Interior: A Journey Through the Serranía Celtibérica

Spain, a country renowned for its vibrant coastal regions and captivating cities that often overshadow a treasure nestled within its heartland. While the majority of tourists flock to the sun-kissed beaches and bustling metropolises, a vast and sparsely populated interior awaits exploration. So, lets take a journey through the Serranía Celtibérica!

A Journey Through the Serranía Celtibérica

One such region, a treasure waiting to be unearthed, is the “Serranía Celtibérica.” This expansive region encompasses the eastern limits of the Sistema Central (Central Mountain Range) and the entirety of the Sistema Ibérico (Iberian Mountains), covering much of the interior of north-eastern and eastern Spain.

Spain's Underrated Interior: A Journey Through the Serranía Celtibérica
Spain’s Underrated Interior: A Journey Through the Serranía Celtibérica. This region was the cradle of Celtic-Iberian civilizations millennia ago. It has also been likened to “Spanish Lapland,” given its low population density – comparable to the Scandinavian region – and its extremely cold winters. In fact, some of the coldest towns in Spain, experiencing temperatures as low as -25°C, are located within this region.
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The Sierra Helada Natural Park (Serra Gelada) and its coastal environment is located within the Marina Baixa region between the bays of Benidorm and Alfàs-Alteao.
It’s a curious paradox that 60% of Spaniards reside in coastal areas or within 50 km of the coast, while another 15% call the Madrid metropolitan area home. This leaves a significant portion of the country, a sprawling expanse of diverse landscapes and rich history, relatively untouched by mass tourism.

Geographically, the Serranía Celtibérica encompasses the land between Madrid and the final mountain ranges before the Mediterranean, stretching from west to east. It also includes the territory between the Ebro Valley and the northern limits of La Mancha, extending from north to south. This encompasses parts, or even entire provinces, within five Autonomous Communities: Castile and León, La Rioja, Aragón, Castile-La Mancha, and the Valencian Community.

Albarracín a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its stunning red-hued historic centre perched dramatically on a hilltop
This region is one of Spain’s most rewarding travel destinations. It’s not just the breathtaking scenery, but also the presence of incredibly beautiful villages and unique architectural and historical landmarks that make it truly special. Albarracín a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its stunning red-hued historic centre perched dramatically on a hilltop

The landscape of the Serranía Celtibérica may not appeal to everyone. You won’t find pristine beaches or towering alpine peaks. Instead, you’ll encounter an extremely rugged, mid-mountainous terrain, with elevations ranging from 1000 to 1900 metres above sea level. This is a vast highland sculpted by the relentless forces of rock, wind, water, and extreme seasonal temperatures. The region exudes a mystical, sometimes even bleak atmosphere that, for me, possesses an undeniable magic.

Created in 1995, the protected landscape of the Pinares de Rodeno is located in the Sierra de Albarracín region in the province of Teruel, Aragon.
Created in 1995, the protected landscape of the Pinares de Rodeno is located in the Sierra de Albarracín region in the province of Teruel, Aragon.

The Serranía Celtibérica is a wild and untamed region, a haven for those seeking solitude and a connection with nature. Its forests, canyons, rivers, moorlands, lagoons, and badlands create a sense of awe and wonder. The dark and colourful ancient forests of Urbión, Alto Tajo, Montes Universales, Cebollera, and Tejera Negra hold a particular allure.

The Cañón del Río Lobos Natural Park is a stunning limestone landscape with two thirds of the park located in the province of Soria
The Cañón del Río Lobos Natural Park is a stunning limestone landscape with two thirds of the park located in the province of Soria

The sheer power of water, carving its path through the rock in El Cañón del Río Lobos, the Río Piedra, the Río Martín, the Río Pitarque, Caracena, Calomarde, and Hoz Seca, is a constant source of awe. The wind, too, leaves its mark, sculpting the clay into dramatic formations in the Sierra de Armantes, the Cañón Rojo de Teruel, and the Cárcavas de Fresno.

The Iberian highlands rewilding project looks really interesting!

Described by Rewilding Europe as “A rugged mountain chain of high plateaus that carves its way through the Iberian Peninsula of Spain, home to pine, oak and juniper forests that mingle alongside steppe and dramatic river canyons“. The Iberian Highlands rewilding project encompasses over 850,000 hectares that lie inside existing protected areas. (Alto Tajo natural park, the Serranía de Cuenca natural park and the Montes Universales mountain range)

The Iberian highlands rewilding project
If this project is a success it will create an impressive backdrop and opportunity for sustainable wildlife tourism in Spain. Hides for bird photography in steppe environments, Iberian lynx, raptors and other birds of prey along with large mammals will certainly draw the attention of companies that offer this type of wildlife holiday. Hopefully (and perhaps most importantly) many local companies will also be able to take advantage of this extra protection given to this massive and impressive area in Eastern Iberia.

Read more about the Iberian Highlands project here.

La Ciudad Encantada in Cuenca
And then there’s the combined force of wind and water, creating otherworldly landscapes like the Ciudad Encantada (Enchanted City) and the Órganos de Montoro (Pipe Organs).
Gallocanta laguna in Aragon, Spain
The region is home to legendary lagoons, such as Lagunas de Neila, Laguna Negra, and Gallocanta, where an estimated 20,000 to 50,000 cranes gather annually on their migratory journey to and from Africa, creating one of the most spectacular natural wonders in Europe.
The unique geological features of this region have led UNESCO to designate two areas as Geoparks: Maestrazgo and Alto Tajo.

Just click the links to find out more about these amazing natural parks.

The Maestrazgo global geopark lies between Zaragoza and Teruel in a very mountainous region at the eastern end of the Iberian System.
The Maestrazgo global geopark lies between Zaragoza and Teruel in a very mountainous region at the eastern end of the Iberian System.
The Alto Tajo Natural Park is famous for its canyons and gorges formed by the river Tagus and its tributaries
The Alto Tajo Natural Park is famous for its canyons and gorges formed by the river Tagus and its tributaries
Star gazing in the Serranía Celtibérica

With minimal light pollution, the Serranía Celtibérica boasts some of the clearest skies on Earth, making it an ideal destination for stargazing.

Read more about stargazing and the Starlight Foundation here.

OAJ: Observatorio Astrofísico de Javalambre (Teruel)
OAJ: Observatorio Astrofísico de Javalambre (Teruel)
Starlight destinations in Spain
The Starlight Foundation is a non-profit organization that was founded in 2009 to promote the protection of the night sky and the development of “astrotourism” and there is an ever growing list of starlight destinations in Spain to visit.
The iconic city of Numancia, Romans, Visgoths and Mudejar architecture

This region is also home to a wealth of historical and cultural treasures. The monasteries of San Millán de Suso and Yuso, located within the region, played a crucial role in the development of the Spanish language.

The region bears witness to the legacy of Celtic-Iberian civilizations, including the iconic city of Numancia, which fiercely resisted Roman rule.

Numancia
According to multiple Roman sources, Numancia proved to be a formidable opponent for the Roman legions. Its roughly 1,500 inhabitants endured a 20-year siege against Roman forces commanded by five different Roman Consuls. The Romans even employed elephants in their attempts to conquer the city, but the people of Numancia, armed only with their walls and stones, held firm.

Discover well-preserved Roman ruins in cities like Clunia Sulpicia, a significant Roman city that witnessed the brutal conflict between Pompey and Sertorius during the First Roman Civil War.

Clunia Sulpicia
Clunia Sulpicia boasts the largest Roman Theatre in Spain.
  • Explore the vast Visigoth necropolis of Castiltierra, a poignant reminder of the Visigoth presence in the region. The necropolis of Castiltierra, with its estimated 8,000 tombs, is the largest Visigoth Necropolis in Spain. Sadly, many of the artifacts unearthed here were plundered by the Nazis during World War II.
  • Admire the exquisite Mudejar architecture, a unique blend of Islamic and Christian styles, found in cities like Teruel. The Mudejar art of Aragon is renowned for its exceptional beauty and has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
This region is also home to charming villages, each with its own unique character and history
  • Viniegra de Abajo and Viniegra de Arriba, nestled in picturesque landscapes.
  • Covarrubias, a charming village with a rich history and stunning architecture.
  • Calatañazor, a charming village with a medieval atmosphere.
  • Medinaceli, a historic town boasting a remarkably well-preserved Roman arch.
  • Vinuesa, a charming village with a rich cultural heritage.
  • Atienza, a medieval town with a fascinating history.
  • Anento, a small village with a unique charm.
  • Mirambel, a picturesque village with a well-preserved medieval centre.
  • Calaceite, a charming village known for its traditional architecture and its proximity to the Maestrazgo Geopark.
  • Albarracín, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its stunning red-hued historic centre perched dramatically on a hilltop.
  • Morella, a fortified town with a rich history and impressive medieval walls.
  • Culla, a charming village with a picturesque setting.
Trazmoz famous for witchcraft
Explore the intriguing history of Trasmoz, a village officially excommunicated by the Catholic Church, giving rise to numerous legends about witches and sabbaths.
Belchite
Belchite, a poignant reminder of the Spanish Civil War, remains a haunting testament to the destructive power of conflict. The village was almost completely destroyed during the Spanish Civil War, leaving behind a chilling reminder of the conflict’s brutality. Read more (in Spanish) here.
Planning a road trip around the Serranía Celtibérica

Hopefully this article has helped to get you started on planning your trip!

The Serranía Celtibérica, often referred to as the “España Vaciada” (Empty Spain), offers a wealth of experiences for those willing to venture off the beaten path. It’s a land of breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and cultural treasures waiting to be discovered.

The true essence of inland Spain lies beyond the high speed motorways, those arteries designed for “getting there” fast and efficiently rather than scenic exploration. Driving from Madrid to the coast, one often encounters a seemingly endless expanse of cropland, a monotony that can easily deter travellers. However, venturing off the main roads and onto the network of secondary roads, reveals a different side to Spain. These roads, which once served as the country’s primary transportation network, offer a glimpse into the heart and soul of Spain, where quaint villages, charming towns, and breathtaking landscapes await discovery.

By embracing the slow pace of life and exploring its hidden corners, travellers like you can discover the true heart and soul of Spain.

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